Finding and Fixing Water Leaks Throughout Stark County

The Kinds of Leaks We Repair

Pressurized supply lines are under force around the clock, so a weak spot there leaks continuously. Drain lines only leak when water is flowing through them, which makes those leaks easier to miss. Fixtures and appliances fall somewhere in between. We handle all three.

Common repairs include the following.

• Pinhole leaks and corroded sections in copper or galvanized steel supply pipe
• Failed fittings, unions and solder joints
• Leaking shutoff valves, supply hoses and appliance connections
• Toilet, faucet, tub and shower valve leaks
• Water heater tank, fitting and relief valve leaks
• Cracked or separated drain and waste lines
• Frozen and burst pipes in exterior walls, crawlspaces and garages
• Leaks in the main water line between the meter and the house

Signs of a Leak You Cannot See

Visible drips are the easy ones. The leaks that cause real damage are usually behind a wall, under a floor or above a ceiling, and they give themselves away indirectly.

A simple test you can run yourself: turn off every faucet and water-using appliance, note the reading on your water meter, and check it again after an hour or two without using any water. If the number moved, water is going somewhere. On a private well, a pump that kicks on when nothing is running points to the same problem.

• A water bill that climbs without a change in household use
• The sound of running water when everything is off
• Stains, bubbling paint or sagging spots on ceilings and walls
• Warped or soft flooring, or loose tiles around a toilet or tub
• A musty smell or mold growth in one area
• Unusually low water pressure at several fixtures
• Warm spots on a floor, which can point to a hot water line leak

Homes vs. Commercial Properties

In a house, the main concerns are stopping the damage, finding the source with as little demolition as possible, and making a repair that will last. Older homes in the county often have aging galvanized or copper lines where one leak is a sign of more to come, and we will tell you honestly when a patch makes sense and when a section should be replaced.

Commercial buildings add downtime and tenants to the equation. A leak in a restaurant, office or multi-unit building can shut down a space or spread to the unit below. We work with owners and property managers to isolate the affected area, keep the rest of the building in service where possible, and schedule repairs around business hours when the situation allows.

Our Leak Repair Process

When water is actively escaping, the first job is containment: shutting off the right valve, protecting what we can and getting the water stopped. After that, every leak repair follows our standard three steps.

Throughout the job we keep the work area neat and protect floors and furnishings. Our plumbers are licensed, insured and bonded.

1. Free Estimate and Diagnosis

We trace the leak using what the house tells us: where the water shows up, which lines run through that area, whether the leak is constant or only happens with use, and pressure and meter checks. The goal is to open the smallest possible area of wall or ceiling to reach the problem.

2. You Approve the Plan

We explain what failed and why, lay out your repair options, and you approve the specifications before we start. If the leak is a symptom of a wider problem, such as badly corroded pipe throughout the house, we will say so and explain the choices.

3. Repair and Quality Inspection

We make the repair, restore water, and check the work under full pressure before we close anything up. You get a clear explanation of what was done.

Repair Options and Pipe Materials

A single pinhole in otherwise sound copper can often be cut out and replaced with a short new section. A leaking fitting can be redone. But when a house has galvanized steel that is rusting from the inside, or copper with repeated pinholes, spot repairs start chasing a moving target. In those cases a partial or whole-house repiping project is often the better long-term choice.

Replacement sections are usually copper or PEX. Copper is durable and handles heat well, while PEX is flexible, resists freezing damage better and can be snaked through finished walls with fewer openings. We match the material to the situation and to what is already in your home.

What to Do Before We Arrive and How to Prevent the Next Leak

Know where your main shutoff valve is before you need it. It is usually where the water line enters the basement, near the meter or the well pressure tank. When a leak starts, close that valve, then open a faucet on the lowest floor to relieve pressure. If water is near outlets or electrical equipment, keep clear and shut off power to that area at the panel if you can do so safely. Move valuables out of the way and take photos for your insurance company.

Prevention is mostly about attention. Replace rubber washing machine hoses with braided ones, check under sinks for dampness a few times a year, and look at the base of the water heater. Keep heat in the house during deep cold, insulate pipes in exterior walls and crawlspaces, and disconnect garden hoses in the fall. Our maintenance agreement includes an annual inspection that can catch slow leaks early.

If a leak has already soaked flooring or drywall, our restoration service and insurance assistance can help you through the cleanup and the claim.

• Find and test your main shutoff before an emergency
• Swap old rubber appliance hoses for braided stainless
• Insulate pipes in unheated spaces before winter
• Watch the water bill and meter for unexplained use