Well Pressure Tank and Pump Cycling Problems Around Alliance

What the pressure tank actually does

Your pressure tank stores a reserve of water under pressure so the pump does not have to start every time someone opens a faucet. Inside most modern tanks, a rubber bladder or diaphragm separates the water from a cushion of compressed air. As water is used, the air pushes it out to the house. When pressure drops to the switch's cut-in point, the pump starts and refills the tank until it reaches the cut-out point.

When that air cushion is lost, the tank holds almost no usable water. Every small draw drops the pressure immediately, and the pump starts and stops in rapid bursts. That pattern, called short cycling, is hard on the pump motor and the switch contacts.

Symptoms that point to the tank

If you notice several of these at once, the tank or its air charge is the likely suspect. Our plumbing troubleshooting service in Alliance can confirm it if the picture is less clear.

• A rapid click from the pressure switch every few seconds while water runs
• The gauge needle jumping up and down instead of moving smoothly
• Pressure pulsing at the shower
• Water spurting from the air valve on top of the tank when pressed
• A tank that sounds or feels full of water when tapped near the top

Checking the air charge yourself

If you are comfortable with basic tools, you can check the air charge. Turn off power to the pump at its breaker, then open a faucet and drain the system until the gauge reads zero. Use a tire gauge on the air valve at the top of the tank. A common setting is a couple of pounds below the pump's cut-in pressure, which is often printed on the switch cover or tank label.

If the reading is low, you can add air with a compressor and see if it holds. If water comes out of the air valve, the bladder has failed and the tank needs replacement. If the charge drops again within days, there may be a slow air leak at the valve or a seam. Do not adjust the pressure switch springs unless you know what you are doing; the switch carries line voltage.

Repair or replace: tank, switch or both

Sometimes the tank is fine and the problem is the pressure switch. Burned or pitted contacts can chatter, stick or fail to start the pump. A clogged tube under the switch can cause erratic readings. Switches are relatively inexpensive, and we often replace one along with a tank so both parts start fresh.

If the tank is waterlogged, it usually needs to be replaced. That is also a good time to reconsider size. A larger tank gives longer pump runs and fewer starts, which helps the pump last. For homes where several people shower in the morning, a constant-pressure controller is another option worth discussing.

Our service, start to finish

We begin with a free estimate, test the tank, switch and pump, and explain what we found. You approve the specifications, we complete the repair, and we finish with a quality inspection that includes watching several full pump cycles. If your water is hard or iron-stained, our Alliance water softener installation can be added downstream of the tank. Leaks on the buried line between the well and house are handled by our Alliance water line repair service, and the full range of well work is on our Stark County well service page.